THE ARTISTIC SURPRISE INSIDE THE PAINTED CHURCHES OF SCHULENBURG TX

Simple and reverent on the outside, the stately brick church along the quiet road in High Hill, hides it secret very well. Like a Fabergé egg, the inside is simply stunning. Known as the “Queen” of the Painted Churches of Schulenburg, TX, St. Mary’s Catholic Church, Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, is well worth the 1 1/2 hour drive from Austin. Similar to the historic cathedrals in Europe, this beautiful Gothic church listed on the National Registry of Historic Places is unforgettable.

What are the Painted Churches of Texas?

There are more than 20 Painted Churches of Texas. They are often built in the Gothic style with soaring ceilings and filled inside with rich symbolism and artistic expertise. Please note – these are all active churches with activities and services on the weekends. Remember to be respectful. The best time to visit is Monday – Thursday, 9 am – 4 pm.

The Painted Churches of Schulenburg, TX 

The most well known and impressive of the Painted Churches are located around the town of Schulenburg. One look inside and you can see why.

The Queen of the Painted Churches of Texas

St. Mary’s church is particularly photogenic and is considered the most stunning of all the Painted Churches in Texas. Your eyes are instantly drawn upwards as you step inside the doorway. You’ll see rich, gold-leaf cross beams which contrast the soft blue color (often associated with the Virgin Mary) on the ceiling. Outlining the beams, intricate, hand painted golden patterns shine behind the massive, elegant chandelier. Behind the crystal lighting, a large pipe organ waits quietly in the distance.

Have you ever seen a more wonderfully designed church altar? The Christ on a Cross stained glass panel glows vividly in the sun. I love how it is surrounded by a towering and incredibly intricate hand carved wooden and gold-leaf outlined mantle. It’s so mesmerizing that it takes a minute to take in all the wonderful statues – the Virgin Mary above, as well as angels and saints flanking Jesus on all sides. How many hours must it have taken to craft and install this masterpiece? Who were these gifted artists?

History of the the Painted Churches

In the early and mid-1800s, immigrants of German and Czech descent came to America to seek their fortunes and flee the religious and political persecution of their home countries. Settling in Fayette County in South Central Texas, they drew upon their cultural gifts as they built their new community. 

Newcomers of Austrian and German descent built the town where St. Mary’s is located, and named it High Hill because it was on elevated land, and as a nod to the mountains of the European homeland they left behind.

Originally constructed in 1869, the growing congregation spurred the church leaders to build a larger home with beautiful stained glass windows donated by the parishioners in 1876. As the decades passed, the High Hill community continued to prosper. The current, much larger church, was built in 1906 with the original stained glass installed. It was painted in 1912.

Notable Artistic Technique

Beyond the statues and stained glass, these churches are full of unique touches. Although it looks like marble, if you look closely at the veiny beam supporting the statue of St. John the Baptist above, you may or may not be able to tell it is a very convincing tromp l’oeil image, a French painting technique that creates an optical illusion to “fool the eye.” This technique is repeated on the walls, arches and altars throughout the church. 

Statues Found Throughout the Interior

As you look around the church, you will see many statues of its namesake Mary, including significant scenes from her life. Here she sorrowfully cradles her son Jesus after the crucifixion. This photo also shows some of the rich detail in the colorful stained glass window behind her including Latin phrases.

In another corner near the front of the church, beautiful carved figures grace the lid of the baptismal font, and represent John the Baptist (who was later made a Saint) blessing Jesus. In the Bible, John the Baptist is famous for baptizing Jesus in the River Jordan. 

Next to this ornate altar to St. Joseph (the husband of Mary), you see two more beautiful panels of stained glass heavy on the ancient royal purple tones favored in Christian tradition. A lush Easter Lilly, which represents purity and hope, is featured on the closest panel. The sunlight shining through the glass brings a lovely soft glow to this little nook.

Heritage Travel

My visit to this lovely little church was a side trip on the way to spend the day in Waco. My friend, her daughter and I are fans of the show Fixer Upper and we wanted make a day trip from Austin to visit the Magnolia shops and restaurant there. Coincidentally, this visit could have also been part of a trend called heritage travel as I was raised Catholic and my grandmother’s family on my father’s side was from Austria. 

Guided Tours of the Painted Churches of Schulenburg TX

Although we visited this church on our own, the website of the local chamber of commerce lists guided tours with docents who can explain much more of the history. There are multi-stop tours which provide visitors a chance to see all of the Painted Churches of Schulenburg.

Conclusion 

One of the joys of travel is learning more about the people who originally built the communities. The European immigrants who traveled to America and settled in Texas brought their traditions and beautiful craftsmanship skills. They gave our country wonderful treasures in the buildings they constructed. The Painted Churches of Schulenburg are considered the most noteworthy of all, and St. Mary’s Catholic Church in High Hill is the crown jewel. You’ll find it’s well worth a visit.

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